Among excesses and provocations, fashion has seriously got us used to any shade of eccentricity. The latest stunning stroke of genius came last week from Demna Gvasalia, creative director at Vetements, who chose an absolutely peculiar location for his Menswear SS 2020 Collection fashion show: the McDonald’s in Paris’s Champs Elysées.
A fast-food emblem, the pop, bright yellow Ms were the contrasting background to the label’s show, where the traditional paper menu was replaced by a list printed in black on napkins, and invitations came in the form of branded black condoms. Main courses? Kapitalism and Global Mind Fuck, the expression of a subtle, slippery satiric message by Vetements, which turned this irreverent language into its lifeblood.
An irreverent language that does not just stylistically quote the icons of consumerism, but gives them socio-political and cultural values so that they speak of decayed societies and dystopian realities.
The Menswear Spring Summer 2020 Collection targets capitalism and all its main players, such as the financial world, the web, and the fashion industry with its overproduction and waste.
Since it was established, Vetements has always been sensitive to the theme of circular economy, and has adopted green solutions such as re-cycling denim and re-using leftover fabrics, as it did with its printed tights. Could this collection, that also invites to rent its “Large for Rent” pieces, be a teaser of the brand’s next actions?
Lettering like “Hello, my name is Capitalism” , coded messages such as “I love Paris Hilton”, or sarcastic logos recalling those of Heineken, PlayStation, Internet Explorer or Vodafone took over different pieces – the back of jackets and baseball caps, sweatshirts and T-shirts, and workwear styles with streetwear notes, worn by models that popped up on the restaurant door from a van parked on the street.