New York, Milan and Paris: glamour and refinement

Chiara Boni at the Milan fashion Week

The nuances of beige, pink and total black dominate the kaleidoscope.

The most current fashion vibes materialize into true works of art with fantastic harmony and vibrate within the historical framework in which we express our essence.

Anton Giulio Grande at the Milan Fashion Week
Anton Giulio Grande © Loris Patrizi

At Milan Fashion Week 2024, among those who have undoubtedly left their mark, Anton Giulio Grande stands out with his fabulous tribute to Maria Callas. Ethereal creatures have expressed themselves in various dimensions through an enchanting play of mirrors, among coral drapes, pearl gray, diamond white, amidst the delicate flight of light feathers, amidst the sparkle of rhinestones, amidst the brilliant play of light of precious stones set in leather jackets, a key element of Grande’s runway show: Anton Giulio, in fact, is an exceptional designer, highly appreciated also in the Americas, who interprets the rhythm of the contemporary human heart, in full rebirth to soar towards infinity. On the catwalk, models parade wrapped in drapes and light veils like delicate dragonflies on the waters, divine graceful creatures made eternal in “evening gowns”, true “sculpture dresses”. Anton Giulio Grande has thus immortalized his collection just as the famous soul of Callas is immortal.

Chiara Boni's fashion show
Chiara Boni

A highly anticipated Milanese fashion show is also that of Chiara Boni, a great genius of international haute couture, highly appreciated also in New York: with the refinement that distinguishes her, the designer has drawn inspiration from the English environment, in Prince of Wales or Tartan suits and in outfits with tones of the British countryside, such as winter white, lavender, petal pink, combined with the intensities of blueberry, mahogany, moss.

A delicate and brilliant creativity is discovered in Jenny Monteiro‘s atelier, refined, elegant art dresses, where we find the style of her experience in creating theatrical costumes. Italo Corrado, an artist and photographer, paid her a visit, paying homage to her unmistakable style. Paola Savio, princibludress, also participated with great interest and passion in some shows and will bring the mood into her “fashion corner”.

Designer Anton Giulio Grande's outfits
Anton Giulio Grande © Loris Patrizi

Brigitte Segura of New York’s Fashiondailymag appreciated the presence in Milan of Anton Giulio Grande and Chiara Boni, for their tribute to femininity in all its facets, precious and valuable outfits that allow every woman’s soul to present itself to the world in its entirety. Milan follows the trend that has already been noted by Brigitte Segura at New York Fashion Week where the passion for sparkling pink by Victor de Souza surprises everyone with his flounces and his garments with special and luminous volumes. On the catwalk, also in the “Big Apple,” Pink combines with Red, as seen in Zang Toi. Brigitte Segura notes the passion for fringes, so beloved by Emma Gage and other young emerging talents, with a taste that takes us back to The Great Gatsby as in the Ferragamo shows in Milan.

Filippo Di Bonaventura
Lem – model: Filippo Di Bonaventura – © Mauro Di Bonaventura

New warriors of light inspired by ancient medieval figures have paraded on many catwalks: Lem in Milan, in the splendid setting of Fashion Vibes, proposes a line as a tribute to those distant times, where it is worth noting a valorous fighter in amaranth and silver, the young model Filippo Di Bonaventura.

Andreas Kronthaler, for Vivienne Westwood in Paris, shows the same mood, to signify the strength we express in this period. Paris Fashion Week enchants with its historic brands like Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Hermès, and proposes timeless styles both in lines and in nuances, embellishing their creations with refined “scales of light”.

Paolo Oldani, fashion sector production manager, appreciated Etro for the use of precious fabrics combined with its classics, unusually coordinated with giant jewels, passing between ethnic and contemporaneity with a convincing effect; Oldani emphasizes the attention to the everyday life of some brands like Roberta Ferretti, with an appreciation for Dolce & Gabbana and Marras for always seeking to exalt Made in Italy.

As in New York and Paris, glamour in Milan is recognized by accessories and in this, the genius of young Daniele Amato stands out, making Leu Locati and its royal bags a true must-have. Already as a teenager, Amato interacts with New York’s Manolo Blahnik – who fascinates the protagonists of Sex and the City with his fashion proposals – in order to devise new creations. Among the loyal customers for whom Leu Locati has made exclusive items, Queen Elizabeth, the wife of the Emperor of Japan, Lady Diana, and Grace Kelly, as well as many European royal families, actresses, and jet-set queens such as Madonna, Charlize Theron, and Natalie Portman. The two young women Chiara Pellicini and Giulia Maltese have been able to appreciate his trend that combines tradition with innovation.

“I am satisfied with my Milan Fashion Week experience alongside photographer Mauro Di Bonaventura,” comments Sonia Jamp, image consultant. “I recommend some trends appreciated also during the Fashion Vibes: skirts over pants by Moschino with style overlays, thin colored, glittery sweaters over hoodies, as seen in Anteprima, sneakers with heels. A tribute to Gucci and all those designers who have been able to express the sovereignty of normality. In many shows, the theme of gender fluidity triumphs, as in the Mirco Giovannini atelier, already seen in Montecarlo Fashion Week, which proposes amazing unisex kimonos.

Simona Fontana

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