A dialogue that creates a kaleidoscope of images and nuances.
Nocturnal suggestions enchant Paris: in front of the Eiffel Tower, Yves Saint Laurent‘s haute couture for this Paris Fashion Week creates precious alchemy that harkens back to the 1980s with textures enhanced by the geometries of accessories.
The fashion shows in New York, Milan and then Paris dialogue with each other interweaving trends in a kaleidoscope of images and nuances. The everlasting people, @le_sempiterne, with President Simona Fontana closely followed the appointments in a lifestyle context, in which the metropolises hosting the runaway shows flaunt their precious monuments, enhancing the mood of the reality we live in: the arts vibrate in unison, involving spaces of everyday life, such as the area in front of the Eiffel Tower, Milan’s Duomo and fashion quadrilateral, prestigious historic buildings as well as industrial areas, and much more. They are the arts presenting themselves to the world: fashion, culture, food.
Paolo Oldani, a product man of timeless brands such as Gianfranco Ferrè, shares with us his narrative on the topic: “I followed Milan Fashion Week and the Paris fashion shows with interest. I consider Yves Saint Laurent’s dresses with clear 80s contaminations to be trendy, which I find in the turned-up collars on shirts, in the large pockets on dresses and jumpsuits still worn with a belt at the hip just as was the custom at that time, in the impalpable lightness of the floaty fabrics, in the transparent scarves knotted around necklaces, in the stoles let cascade over the shoulders. On the catwalks we discover a return to the nude. An example? The round-neck silk organza under-jacket that enhances femininity. I found Gianni Versace 80s in the use of burnt colors, in the beiges with refined declinations. For evening, the must-have is black organza and silk chiffon, very chic“.
In the Ville Lumière, venues like the Moulin Rouge are still trending, Chez Maxim’s enchants celebrities, just like the Ritz. “In Paris, Dior enhances the black-and-white-inspired charm with the same art of transparencies, also trending on the Milanese catwalks as Dolce & Gabbana“, Oldani concludes.
The Eighties mood always continues with Dolce & Gabbana, for whom “femininity is ageless, and we wanted to say it with clothes.” A strong message, much appreciated, found in the seduction of transparencies, fishnet stockings, and guepières. The two designers dressed fashion icons of those years such as Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Stephanie Seymour, Carla Bruni and Cindy Crawford for the cover of Vanity Fair Italy.
At Milan Fashion Week we also note the return of Fiorucci, with its precious lines, which so fascinated the Big Apple during that very historical period. Fiorucci was an eclectic man, a great traveler who opened the historic store in Piazza San Babila and wrote the history of Italian fashion in those years.
The same nude and color play contaminated the New York fashion shows. Brigitte Segura for Fashion Daily Mag in New York extolled the style just as Sonia Iampieri and Mauro Di Bonaventura, photographer for the everlasting people, Le Sempiterne, confirmed the mood in Milan.
The passion for earthy colors, an allure reminiscent of the 1980s, can also be rediscovered at Calcaterra‘s, with lightweight impalpable pants and jumpsuits that also unite Milan and Paris. Sonia Iampieri, image consultant, liked the style and “loved everything” about this designer.
During Fashion Week, the return to the 1980s envelops Milan, the city sparkles with glamour in the iconic Milanese places, timeless from the Eighties, those of the “Milano da bere,” in which some of the greats of Italian fashion, such as Gianfranco Ferrè, Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Krizia, and Trussardi, reigned supreme.
A la page now as then the Bar Basso, the Ginrosa, the “A Santa Lucia,” a historic venue appreciated by celebrities from all over the world. They approach the elegance of Armani Café and the precious minimalism of new openings such as the Baltic bar, which was born from the thunderbolt sparked by a trip among friends to Riga: passionate about food and wine culture, they chose to give life to a place in the Baltic mood and enriched by Italian Style.
The romance of Fiorucci, famous for its putti, is found in many shows both New York and Milan: mises with enchanting ruffles in pastel hues, a real return to femininity, to very soft colors in which “Flower Power” triumphs, oversize flowers to which elegant dresses are matched, proposed by Victor De Souza NY, by Selkie, by 831 Minhle. These trends were highly praised by Brigitte Segura of Fashion Daily Mag New York, who also highlighted Toile de Jouy-style fabrics with precious handcrafted finishes from Victor De Souza NY.
The same mood can be felt at Luisa Beccaria‘s, which dresses the fairy tale in a meadow enchanted by beautiful nymphs, as Sonia Iampieri suggests, a plunge away from the reality around us to allow people to dream.
From New York to Milan after 20 years: the Spring/Summer 2024 collection of Chiara Boni La Petite Robe reveals its unmistakable style that brands travel memories, zebra print maxis, graphic interpretations of traditional tie-dye patterns and jaguar spots add an exotic vibe to the collection.
Influencer Federico Ingrassia visited a few shows for the everlasting people and at Chiara Boni’s he “found many clean lines but with sophisticated prints that echo the theme of the earth, in which the atmospheres, the lights, of faraway places are echoed, even in the headdresses.”
New York pushes to explore food culture in fashion: an exhibition running from Sept. 13, which opened during New York Fashion Week and continues through Nov. 26, at the Museum at FIT. Food & Fashion, displays more than eighty garments and accessories signed by a wide range of modern and contemporary designers. An example? In 2015, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel created Brasserie Gabrielle at the Grand Palais in Paris, where everything was contaminated by food, the models were refined waitresses, the clutches shaped like plates.
The Everlasting People confirms the focus on Emerging Talents, the emerging talents best known thanks to Brigitte Segura, who reported from New York on the Milan shows: artist Italo Corrado was able to appreciate the trends. Federico Ingrassia remarked on its refinement in the fabrics, in the broderies, so precious and shiny enriched with rhinestones, bringing forth novelties with lightness and elegance just as Fendi and Ferragamo did.
A refinement that is also found in Anton Giulio Grande, whose style in recent months has been a success during Monte Carlo Fashion Week, narrated to us by Sonia Iampieri, a style that we found again on the Milanese catwalks with the allure that distinguishes him and makes his women sublime.
In conclusion, Sonia Iampieri interprets the thought of everlasting people: “A fashion week very much dedicated to insiders. The models are finally accessible to almost all female shapes. It was an inclusive fashion week that enhances the dialogue with the everyday, getting closer to ordinary people, to all those who live this land, dressing in its colors“.
Simona Fontana
